I ended up mounting my MS ECU in the stock location on an aluminium plate.MS is in it's own enclosure and is wired to the L-Jet ECU connector which in turn is plugged into the stock L-Jet plug.įor my intake I took the manifold temperature sensor from an old AFM and mounted it in a length of 3" exhaust pipe which I then inserted into the stock AFM to plenum hose.I had to heat the hose in hot water to make it pliable enough to insert the pipe.It turned out pretty well.If you look inside the AR flexible hose you'll see that it is a smooth surface all the way to the plenum so if your hose is in good shape might as well use it. I used Steve Rossers writeup extensively and it helped a great deal. To begin I want to thanks all the great people on this board who helped guide me through this sometimes difficult project. Well finally I feel comfortable posting this info and hopefully it will be of assistance to others attempting this switch from L-Jet to MSII on a 2.5L engine. Thanks for any input.Engine mods.:S cams,K&N filter,remove AFM,potentiometer type TPS,Total seal piston rings. The weather is getting consistently nice, and I'd really like to be out driving this thing. I'm looking for some ideas on what I should be checking next. When it does, if I give it some revs while sitting in neutral, it seems to rev up fine, but when I let off the throttle, the rpms fall very low and the engine nearly stalls out, but will typically recover to that choppy idle. Sometimes it will die after a few seconds of rough idling. Now the car starts, but the idle is a bit choppy. I pumped out what was remaining in the tank and have been adding a couple gallons of fresh fuel from a can I filled at my last few fill-ups of the daily driver. I figured it's probably not the main culprit, but the gas in the car may be getting a bit old, as I've never filled the tank since I bought the car back in early December. When I went to start the car to move it back into the garage, it would not start. I rolled it out of the garage to remove the seats to have them reupholstered. ![]() The next time I touch the car is in early April. Come to find there is a small leak coming from a seam in the wheel. A few days later, one of the tires has gone flat. Get the tires changed and drive home fine. Again car drives great (minus a speedometer that is bouncing around 90 mph when I'm actually traveling about 70). ![]() Is it safe to assume the TTS needs to be replaced? Anything else on the fueling side I should check?Ī week or two later, I drive the car to work to put some new tires on it that I had waiting, as the ones on the car when I bought it were 12 years old. Thermo Time Switch resistance readings were off somewhat from suggested valuesĪgain, the engine cranks over just fine and very nearly catches every now and then. Cold Start Injector fires when hooked up to 12V Coolant Temp Sensor checked out OK (4k ohms at ~55☏) Cleaned AAV (hole opens up when in the freezer and closes up when in the oven) Flywheel position sensors resistance readings checked out OK Can also assume then that the fuel pump relay is good?) ![]() Pulled line after fuel filter, cranked engine and fuel came out (pumps and filters working/not clogged. Fuel pump fuse under parcel shelf looks fine 10.5 - 11V on the battery when cranking the engine Grounds on battery, transmission, and intake all cleaned and look good (Car ran fine to drive it home, but has not started since, so I don't know if there are any hot start issues present as well.) I've been running through the steps discussed in the L-Jetronic guide at as well as a number of threads on the Board here. I am in the midst of troubleshooting a cold start issue on my 1985 Spider.
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